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From Admiralty Bay, Bequia:
May 31, 2012:
Spanny Falls:
A late dispatch from Dominica

Still catching up here. Though we’re now in Bequia, I wanted to tell you about a day we spent a couple of weeks ago with guide Martin Carrierre in Dominica. I’m a complete pushover for hikes that include waterfalls – lush rain-forest vegetation, gorgeous freshwater pools for swimming; what’s not to love? – so when Martin said he had a new falls to show us, I was in. By 8:00 a.m. the next morning, he had a full vanload of cruisers signed on and we were off to Spanny Falls, smack-dab in the centre of the island. By 8:00 a.m. the next morning, he had a full vanload of cruisers signed on and we were off to Spanny Falls, smack-dab in the centre of the island.

Spanny Falls are on private property – you pay a small fee to get to them – and though the landowners have kept things natural, they’ve made access pretty easy. Getting to the first cascade is more walk than hike: a scant half-hour dawdling along an easy trail. Getting to the second is a bit more strenuous – more of a climb – but still fairly easy, thanks to the ropes the landowners have installed to help visitors scramble up and down, and do-able in bare feet and a swimsuit.

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On our way to the second set of falls

Since it had rained over the past few days (and there had even been some liquid sunshine earlier that morning), the vegetation was shockingly green. The heliconia glowed red and yellow, as if they had lightbulbs inside. And the falls were fast and full. And of course I took the plunge in both pools. The first was my favourite: I could swim almost up to the falls and let the water pummel my back, head, and shoulders…at least until it took my breath away.

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A Spanny Falls shoulder massage

Afterwards, Martin doled out mangoes (beforehand, it had been bananas, and before that, grapefruit, and we also made a roadside stop for roasted plantains hot off the grill), to tide us over until lunch at Islet View near Castle Bruce. Steve and I had been there previously several times on our own, and enjoyed owner Rudy Smith’s Creole cooking, and his collection of medicinal rums. But I’ll save that for my next post.

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The first falls
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Greener than green
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Heliconia aglow

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3 comments on “From Admiralty Bay, Bequia:
May 31, 2012:
Spanny Falls:
A late dispatch from Dominica

  1. sas nemeth on said:

    I am so excited!! read your blog. I am housesitting in Trafalgar Falls for 6 weeks in Sept-Oct. thanks. I cant wait to hike too!

  2. gwendominica on said:

    Bonjou Ann! Ca ca fete? Island birdies have told me that you pass through (not by!) Dominica from time to time. Hope to catch up with you some day soon. I haven’t been to Spanny for years! It seems that even after 15 (!) years on the Nature Isle,there is always another waterfall or trail to experience. You could check out my latest adventures on Ti Domnik Tales, which is my wordpress blog. Enjoy Bequia!

  3. Belinda Del Pesco on said:

    The smile on your face in the Falls Massage shot, and the beautiful photos of all that greenery tell the story as well as your nice description. What an lovely experience. Thanks for sharing it.

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