Receta at anchor in Prince Rupert Bay, near Portsmouth, at the north end of Dominica

A common sight when you’re anchored in Prince Rupert Bay

The Cabrits headland just north of Portsmouth, was the site of Fort Shirley, a large 18th-century British garrison

On the trail to the Boiling Lake, one of Dominica’s must-do hikes (at least for the energetic: expect six to eight hours of hiking)

Crossing the Valley of Desolation on the way to the Boiling Lake; the earth steams and spits, the air reeks of sulphur, and scalding water bubbles to the surface in this active volcanic area

At the edge of the Boiling Lake, which bubbles like soup in a giant cauldron

Dominica is startingly, staggeringly green, two-thirds of it covered with thick rain forest

In the rain forest, on the way to the Boiling Lake

The heliconia flowers shine so brilliantly among the foliage it's as if they're illuminated from within

The island's Caribs, the largest remaining population of indigenous people in the Caribbean, weave baskets from reeds. Some are made with a double layer, so they're waterproof

In the Carib Territory

Mangoes and soursops for sale along the roadside in the Carib Territory

On the Indian River, near Portsmouth

The sculptural roots of swamp bloodwood trees along the Indian River

You may recognize the Indian River even if you've never been to Dominica: Scenes in “Pirates of the Caribbean: Dead Man's Chest” were shot here

We sighted this handsome iguana along the Indian River

Unhappy about our presence, this little Dominica anole has inflated his dewlap

This boa constrictor sprawled across the road as we returned to the rain-forest cabin where we were staying one night

Land crab, on the defense

Boatman, river guide, and accomplished cook Martin Carrierre took us hunting for land crabs near Prince Rupert Bay one night. Catching them requires speed – and caution: That big claw is capable of breaking a person’s finger

Into the sack…The whole story of our night of land crab hunting with Martin Carrierre is in Chapter 5 of The Spice Necklace

Washing the crab pieces with lime before they go into the pot. The cleaning process trashed Receta's cockpit

Rolling dumplings with Martin in Receta's galley

A hidden-in-the-mountains bush rum still

Stoking the still 's boiler

After it drips out the condenser, Kirt pours the “mountain dew” into a storage bucket

Kirt and Moses, inside the shack that houses the mooshine still

The line-up of bush rums behind the bar at the Islet View restaurant, in Castle Bruce. The additional ingredients improve the taste and many are said to have medicinal benefits

At this rum shop, the specialty is “Jah Daniel,” bush rum steeped with ganja

Moses James (left) took us crayfish hunting at night on the White River. Here, he and his cousin Neville are baiting lines with fresh coconut meat

Into the sack…The dark, damp story of our crayfish adventure with Moses is in Chapter 5 of The Spice Necklace

The crayfish-and-crab broth we ate later that night was outstanding

In the rain forest…

Supersize me

Along the Waitukubuli National Trail, between Capuchin and Penville

The trail between Capuchin to Penville has been used for hundreds of years by farmers who cultivate provisions such as dasheen and eddoes along the steep hillsides

Dominica’s newest national wonder, the Miracle Lake appeared over the course of a week in 1997

Laura (here, with her nephew) sells juices that she makes from whatever fruits are in season at this stand along the road at the edge of Portsmouth

If you're lucky, you can also get hand-churned ice cream along the road just north of Portsmouth

At the water's edge in Portsmouth, fishermen sell the catch they've just brought in; this yellowfin tuna cost the equivalent of $2.50 a pound

At the Saturday market in Portsmouth

On the shopping list: West Indian pumpkin

The market in Roseau, the capital, is the island's largest

Smoky-tasting Dominican “spinach” (amarynth leaves) is irresistible

If you get hungry while shopping, look for a grill where plantains and bakes are roasting

In the Roseau market: Bouquets of carrots and anthuriums

A flower seller arranges her blooms in the Roseau market

Another Roseau market scene

Rolling cinnamon bark into sticks, Roseau market

Cinnamon bark starts to curl naturally as it dries in the sun, but human hands finish the job

Red Rock Beach, on the northeast coast of Dominica

Another stretch of Dominica's wild east coast

Near the village of Calibishie, on the east coast

Breadnut tree, a close relative to the breadfruit

Passion fruit got its name because the shape of its flower is said to evoke the passion of Christ; to me, the resemblance is a stretch

In the rain forest: heliconia with hummingbird

Moses James (whose son, also named Moses, took us crayfish hunting) on his property near Delices

Moses cooking lunch

Moses grew or foraged for all the ingredients that went into our lunchtime Ital stew

Moses and I

Roseau boasts fine examples of 18th and 19th century Creole architecture, with gingerbreaded second-storey verandahs providing shelter from sun and rain for both street-level pedestrians and people liming above

Heading towards Victoria Falls on the White River

First glimpse of Victoria Falls

Israel, Moses’ younger son, gives me a helping hand

The route to Victoria Falls crisscrosses the river several times and takes us over and around river-smoothed boulders

The reward at the end

The milky blue-green water (the result of dissolved minerals) gives the White River its name

Our own private swimming hole just downstream of Victoria Falls